For a whittler (carving with a knife) the thumb guard is of great value. Here's the proof!
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Thumb Guards
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Muscle Memory and Whittling
When speaking of muscle memory one has to think practice. In its most basic explanation muscle memory involves both muscles and the brain. Wood carvers when asked about the learning of their skills, they may respond practice, practice, practice. Whenever I hear practice, practice, practice; my mind goes to the phrase "practice makes perfect". When practicing knife cuts and whittling, just be sure that you are practicing them correctly; because with repetition something happens between your brain and your muscles. If you practice enough repetitions and they're incorrect or result in something that you do not want, muscle memory may embed your practiced whittling to the point that it may be difficult to change. The better method of practice is to practice the whittling so that the result is what you want. This may take some planning.
When whittling Santa pins, it is always desirable to whittle a smiling or a happy Santa. However, it seems that it is easier to end up with a Santa face that is not so happy. I learned about this connection between the muscles and brain long ago and then applied it to learning to whittle happier Santa faces. I had an opportunity to demonstrate whittling, and wanted to hand out what I had whittled. At that stage of my whittling, my Santa faces some times were not happy. In fact they might have been scary to some. So I set out to whittle happy faces as a demonstration. I concentrated on those knife cuts that resulted in a happy face. I kept doing the same thing over and over. After a day of this I realized that almost all the Santa faces I carved were happier.
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Oh there's a few with that "surprised" look, but none that are scary. Practice, practice, practice.
When I whittle the Santa faces now, my muscle and brain memory take over, and don't have to worry to much about the results-------most of the time.
However, I am working on a zombie Santa now!
When whittling Santa pins, it is always desirable to whittle a smiling or a happy Santa. However, it seems that it is easier to end up with a Santa face that is not so happy. I learned about this connection between the muscles and brain long ago and then applied it to learning to whittle happier Santa faces. I had an opportunity to demonstrate whittling, and wanted to hand out what I had whittled. At that stage of my whittling, my Santa faces some times were not happy. In fact they might have been scary to some. So I set out to whittle happy faces as a demonstration. I concentrated on those knife cuts that resulted in a happy face. I kept doing the same thing over and over. After a day of this I realized that almost all the Santa faces I carved were happier.
Oh there's a few with that "surprised" look, but none that are scary. Practice, practice, practice.
When I whittle the Santa faces now, my muscle and brain memory take over, and don't have to worry to much about the results-------most of the time.
However, I am working on a zombie Santa now!
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Whittling a Face -- A continuation!
A previous post titled " WHITTLING A FACE - A REVIEW" was kind of left hanging without being completed. This post is intended to correct that omission. It's kind off quick and "dirty".
Continue to refine the shape of the nose by removing a chip to define the bridge of the nose. Finally, thin the nose up to the bridge of the nose.
It's useful to use a "curling" knife cut from the nose tip to the bridge, to result in a kind of scoop cut.
The goal here is to have the mustache appear to stand out from the face.
There's any number of refinements that can be made at this point.
Texture the beard
Round off the cheeks a bit more
Highlight the eye brows
Sand parts or all of the piece
Scrub the piece with a denture brush and soap and hot water
Finish natural, stain. or paint
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Home Made Thumb Guard - Improvement
Several weeks ago I posted a couple of home made leather items. One was a pocket knife scabbard and the other a thumb guard.
Here's a combination of the two. The main reason for this combination was to remind me to use the thumb guard. Kind of hard to forget when you must take the knife out of the thumb guard.
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Here's a combination of the two. The main reason for this combination was to remind me to use the thumb guard. Kind of hard to forget when you must take the knife out of the thumb guard.
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Travelin and Emergency Accessories
No recent posts cause I've been travelin. Drove to California and back in the last two weeks, This road trip brought to mind the special needs of whittlers and carvers, when on the road. We need to be sure to take the necessary stuff so that we can whittle anywhere we wish. As a whittler, I always have my pocket knife with me, in my pocket. But on a two week road trip you best make additional plans to be sure you have the correct whittlin stuff. You'll need a strop and some blanks.
Here's a simple "tool roll" to stick into your suitcase, carry-on, purse, briefcase, or car/truck glove box. From now on I will put my backup knife, small strop, pencil, thumb guard, and a blank or two in the tool roll and leave it in my van glove box.
Maybe I should add a few band aids!
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Here's a simple "tool roll" to stick into your suitcase, carry-on, purse, briefcase, or car/truck glove box. From now on I will put my backup knife, small strop, pencil, thumb guard, and a blank or two in the tool roll and leave it in my van glove box.
Maybe I should add a few band aids!
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Apples For Teachers
Soon the Christmas craft and wood carvings shows will be here. Lots of wood carvers like to exhibit and sell carved items at these events. We always try to have something special. I like to to whittle and have items that kids will want and can afford. One such item is a whittled refrigerator magnet. I found out early on that kids still like to give their teacher a gift. Thus the idea of an APPLE.
Actually my daughter who is a teacher suggested the carved apple as a refrigerator magnet. She said this item would be something that any teacher would use...
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This project is so simple and easy that it is almost self explanatory. One just needs:
Thin Basswood (I use 3/8" thick)
Knife
Scroll saw or fret saw
Thumb guard
Drill (to recess the magnet)
Super glue (I use the thicker super glue)
Magnet I use the extra strong (Rare earth - approx 2# pull, 1/4" in diameter)
Paint and brush
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You can whittle lots of these with little expense in time or materials. But a warning! When done hide some, because everyone who sees them will want one.
Actually my daughter who is a teacher suggested the carved apple as a refrigerator magnet. She said this item would be something that any teacher would use...
This project is so simple and easy that it is almost self explanatory. One just needs:
Thin Basswood (I use 3/8" thick)
Knife
Scroll saw or fret saw
Thumb guard
Drill (to recess the magnet)
Super glue (I use the thicker super glue)
Magnet I use the extra strong (Rare earth - approx 2# pull, 1/4" in diameter)
Paint and brush
You can whittle lots of these with little expense in time or materials. But a warning! When done hide some, because everyone who sees them will want one.
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Zombie Santa!
I can't believe I've actually done this. I did however have a request for a "Zombie Santa". Maybe not a real request, but a challenge. Maybe something like; "...you can't whittle a Zombie Santa, can you"? Well, the rest of the story, was "why not". I think I remember saying,: "what, you got to be kidding me"! Whittle one I did!
To justify my odd behavior, I even came up with a story, in case a true believer sees the Zombie Santa. The story goes like this: Some believe that there are two Santa's. One Santa is the one we all know and love. However, there is a second Santa. The first Santa responds well to good little boys and girls. But the other Santa is a Zombie and does not respond well to boys and girls who were not so good.....
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This Santa will have a eye screw at the top so it can be hung and buried somewhere on the tree.
I guess there's an "up side" to whittling the Zombie Santa. No eyes and nose to worry about.
To justify my odd behavior, I even came up with a story, in case a true believer sees the Zombie Santa. The story goes like this: Some believe that there are two Santa's. One Santa is the one we all know and love. However, there is a second Santa. The first Santa responds well to good little boys and girls. But the other Santa is a Zombie and does not respond well to boys and girls who were not so good.....
I guess there's an "up side" to whittling the Zombie Santa. No eyes and nose to worry about.
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The Real Santa!
After the last post I feel obligated to post a photo of a recently whittled REAL Santa.
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Thanks for putting up with me!
Thanks for putting up with me!
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Paint vs Natural Finish
Every ones individual tastes vary about everything. This applies to carvings and whittlings too. Some like their pieces painted while some like them natural.
I remember looking upon a carving of a Santa, that was excellent. Very very well carved. The piece was painted to the most exact detail. The piece was being judged, and only garnered a red ribbon. I remember talking to the carver and he said the judges told him the carving was excellent, but the paint job made the piece look like it was plastic. Whether one agrees wit the judge or not, his reasoning points out the two schools of thought on finishing a carved wood piece.
I like both the painted piece and the natural. Although, there are reasons for a natural finished carving over a painted carving. At the top of this list of reasons to finish a carving naturally is the steadiness of the painters hand, and the painters vision. Of course there is always the time element.
and the fact that some just love the look of natural wood.
Here's a photo of painted and natural finishes.
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The ornaments and pins in the top row were merely finished with HOWARD'S FEED-N-WAX. This is one of the fastest finish methods. I could have dipped the pieces in a wood conditioner, then dipped into a stain, let dry and waxed.
I remember looking upon a carving of a Santa, that was excellent. Very very well carved. The piece was painted to the most exact detail. The piece was being judged, and only garnered a red ribbon. I remember talking to the carver and he said the judges told him the carving was excellent, but the paint job made the piece look like it was plastic. Whether one agrees wit the judge or not, his reasoning points out the two schools of thought on finishing a carved wood piece.
I like both the painted piece and the natural. Although, there are reasons for a natural finished carving over a painted carving. At the top of this list of reasons to finish a carving naturally is the steadiness of the painters hand, and the painters vision. Of course there is always the time element.
and the fact that some just love the look of natural wood.
Here's a photo of painted and natural finishes.
The ornaments and pins in the top row were merely finished with HOWARD'S FEED-N-WAX. This is one of the fastest finish methods. I could have dipped the pieces in a wood conditioner, then dipped into a stain, let dry and waxed.
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Santa Ornament TIPS
With Christmas and Christmas craft shows fast approaching some whittlers and carvers like to carve Santa ornaments for these times. Whether you sell the ornaments or gift them, you'll need several. In fact you may need lots of them. This is one reason that I like to be sure to be very efficient in making them. That's why I like to cut some corners in the process. Here's the way I do many of the Santa ornaments.
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I have already decided to finish the ornaments natural, instead of painting. There are several reasons for this decision. First, I am lazy. I also do not like to paint, and run the risk of ruining an other wise decent ornament. I am just not as steady as I used to be. It's also much faster.
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I do not like to sand my pieces after whittling them with a knife - with one exception. The tip of the nose. In my humble opinion. a smooth rounded nose tip makes for a happier looking Santa. Here's some of the materials that can smooth and round the tip of the nose. The last/bottom device shown is a dental burr held in an adjustable chuck. Some refer to this as a "pin vice".
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Here's the result of smoothing and rounding the nose tip. Compare this photo to the previous photo and see if you agree that the rounded and smooth nose tip makes the Santa look happier.
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Next I push an eye piece into the top of Santa's hat. This will serve to help DIP the piece into finish as well as hang on a tree. Notice, that in keeping with the lack of paint, I have wood burned some "snow flakes" into the hat band.
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I dip the piece into wood conditioner and hang to dry.
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After drying, wax and buff. Add more wax to get darker, or stain - but that's one more step.
Dpn't know how much easier this can get! But I'll still try.
I have already decided to finish the ornaments natural, instead of painting. There are several reasons for this decision. First, I am lazy. I also do not like to paint, and run the risk of ruining an other wise decent ornament. I am just not as steady as I used to be. It's also much faster.
Dpn't know how much easier this can get! But I'll still try.
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3 to 5 Minute Fox
Being an avid whittler, I am always looking for and trying out new small items to whittle. I especially like small, fast, and not too involved pieces, since I like to pass them out to kids. Here's an example:
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This little fox has all flat cuts, that are not too hard to achieve. The big question is; does the piece look like a fox without paint?
I will continue to refine and maybe make some adjustments, then post a step - by - step.
I will continue to refine and maybe make some adjustments, then post a step - by - step.
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Stylized Ultra Flat Plane Fox (Step-by-step)
In keeping with my laziness, and trying something new, here's a step-by-step without explanation. I am hoping that you all can figure out what each step photograph illustrates. The important thing to remember is to make a stop cut first then either Pare or Slice to the stop cut. And you can make several slices/paring cuts to get to the finished cut.
Personal safety gear is important too. Carving glove and thumb guard.
You also may wish to use a piece of wood longer than the finished piece (2 1/2"), to provide additional holding space.
Start with a 1" x 1" x 2 1/2" piece of wood. All carving is done on the corner.
You may wish to make some cuts on the back of the fox too relieve the center corner.
Personal safety gear is important too. Carving glove and thumb guard.
You also may wish to use a piece of wood longer than the finished piece (2 1/2"), to provide additional holding space.
Start with a 1" x 1" x 2 1/2" piece of wood. All carving is done on the corner.
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You may wish to make some cuts on the back of the fox too relieve the center corner.
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Ultra Flat Plane Animals
I subscribe to the thought that success breeds success. What this means to wood carving can be found in the initial learning process. Whether you are learning on your own, or being taught; early success is important. Without early success a learner will become discouraged and stop trying.
It is my hope that these ultra flat plane stylized animals can provide this early carving success, and lead onto more difficult carving and more successes.
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These ultra flat plan carved animals may be pushing limits of traditional flat plane carving by their simplicity. I am calling them "Ultra Flat Plane" because of the small number of larger flat planes on each piece.
The following photos illustrate the basics involved in carving a ultra flat plane stylized rooster.
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Start with a drawing of the rooster in profile. Next, Transfer the drawing to a 1/2"piece of Basswood. I use a scroll saw and eliminate the curved lines as I cut the blank. You may wish to convert the curved outlines on the drawing before transferring it to the wood.
Once the rooster is cut out you can begin to cut the flat planes with a knife.
This ultra flat plane style uses three basic knife cuts:
STOP CUT
THUMB ASSISTED PUSH CUT
PARING CUT
The following photos will show the steps:
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To prepare for the carving, first mark on the blank where the stop cuts will be made.
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Make stop cuts ate the edges of the wood where the drawn lines are. After these corners have stop cuts made connect these stop cuts as shown by the solid lines. Neck, comb, tail feathers,and feet
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With a sharp knife, make push cuts or paring cuts to remove slices of wood to the corner stop cuts. This is illustrated by the pencil marks that darken the flat cut on the roosters back to the tail. Then using the push cut or paring cut, remove slices of wood between the "flats" that define the tail. Make these cuts of each side of the blank (same cuts on each side).
Continue making these cuts right around the blank on both sides front and back.
SOME TIPS
Pay attention to the direction of the wood grain.
Make the cuts with the grain.
You do not have to remove the whole thickness / slice of wood with one cut.
Try to remove the slices at the same thickness, to maintain flatness.
It helps to think of being a diamond cutter! Maintain clean and even slices the same as the facets on a cut diamond.
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Add some color and you have a very easy and quick Ultra Flat Plane Rooster.
It is my hope that these ultra flat plane stylized animals can provide this early carving success, and lead onto more difficult carving and more successes.
These ultra flat plan carved animals may be pushing limits of traditional flat plane carving by their simplicity. I am calling them "Ultra Flat Plane" because of the small number of larger flat planes on each piece.
The following photos illustrate the basics involved in carving a ultra flat plane stylized rooster.
Start with a drawing of the rooster in profile. Next, Transfer the drawing to a 1/2"piece of Basswood. I use a scroll saw and eliminate the curved lines as I cut the blank. You may wish to convert the curved outlines on the drawing before transferring it to the wood.
Once the rooster is cut out you can begin to cut the flat planes with a knife.
This ultra flat plane style uses three basic knife cuts:
STOP CUT
THUMB ASSISTED PUSH CUT
PARING CUT
The following photos will show the steps:
To prepare for the carving, first mark on the blank where the stop cuts will be made.
Make stop cuts ate the edges of the wood where the drawn lines are. After these corners have stop cuts made connect these stop cuts as shown by the solid lines. Neck, comb, tail feathers,and feet
With a sharp knife, make push cuts or paring cuts to remove slices of wood to the corner stop cuts. This is illustrated by the pencil marks that darken the flat cut on the roosters back to the tail. Then using the push cut or paring cut, remove slices of wood between the "flats" that define the tail. Make these cuts of each side of the blank (same cuts on each side).
Continue making these cuts right around the blank on both sides front and back.
SOME TIPS
Pay attention to the direction of the wood grain.
Make the cuts with the grain.
You do not have to remove the whole thickness / slice of wood with one cut.
Try to remove the slices at the same thickness, to maintain flatness.
It helps to think of being a diamond cutter! Maintain clean and even slices the same as the facets on a cut diamond.
Add some color and you have a very easy and quick Ultra Flat Plane Rooster.
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Ultra Flat Plane Animals For Patterns
Thanks Mark for your suggestion for a photo of each animal...
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Santa Ornaments and pins
Planning ahead is always nice, But when you forget that you are not participating in any Christmas sales this year, you end up with lots of Santa ornaments and pins. Believe it or not this is only a small collection of what I have. Since I whittle every day when having my coffee at the local diner, lots of folks will be gifted whether they want it or not.
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Flash Back!
Here's some projects from the past;
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More projects from the past! (Part 2)
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More Projects From The Past (Part 3)
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Applying a Finish To Basswood Carving - Basic Painting
A blog viewer has asked some great questions about applying finishes to carved Santa ornaments.
The following are some general observations about applying finishes to Basswood carvings.
PAINTED STAINED NATURAL
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If I decide to paint the piece this is what I generally do: Scrub the piece with a denture brush, dish washing soap and hot water. This will remove pencil marks, fuzzies, and oils and dirt from handling the piece when carving. Let the piece dry. Wad up a piece brown paper bag and buff the piece if the wood grain has not "relaxed" from the scrubbing.
TIP about painting: Use Acrylic paints. They're cheap and easy to clean up the brushes, They can be diluted to make them lighter, and can be layered when applying.
The difficulties with applying paint, especially if diluted is that if not very careful they will bleed from one color to another. There are two things that you can do to prevent this color bleeding.
You can wood burn a line between each of the colors.
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Or you can seal the wood surface, before painting with a wood sealer. I use a diluted wash of Shellac.
After the paint is dry you can antique and/or, wax. If I want to antique the carving, I sometimes use a liquid wax that has a walnut stain in it. This you apply over the dry paint with a rag or a brush, and immediately wipe it off, leaving some of the wax in the crevices. When the wax dries you can buff the piece.
This is just a basic primer on painting a Basswood carving. I am sure that there are many more techniques and tips.
IF YOU HAVE ANY ADDITIONAL TECHNIQUES/TIPS, PLEASE SHARE THEM AS A COMMENT.
The following are some general observations about applying finishes to Basswood carvings.
PAINTED STAINED NATURAL
If I decide to paint the piece this is what I generally do: Scrub the piece with a denture brush, dish washing soap and hot water. This will remove pencil marks, fuzzies, and oils and dirt from handling the piece when carving. Let the piece dry. Wad up a piece brown paper bag and buff the piece if the wood grain has not "relaxed" from the scrubbing.
TIP about painting: Use Acrylic paints. They're cheap and easy to clean up the brushes, They can be diluted to make them lighter, and can be layered when applying.
The difficulties with applying paint, especially if diluted is that if not very careful they will bleed from one color to another. There are two things that you can do to prevent this color bleeding.
You can wood burn a line between each of the colors.
Or you can seal the wood surface, before painting with a wood sealer. I use a diluted wash of Shellac.
After the paint is dry you can antique and/or, wax. If I want to antique the carving, I sometimes use a liquid wax that has a walnut stain in it. This you apply over the dry paint with a rag or a brush, and immediately wipe it off, leaving some of the wax in the crevices. When the wax dries you can buff the piece.
This is just a basic primer on painting a Basswood carving. I am sure that there are many more techniques and tips.
IF YOU HAVE ANY ADDITIONAL TECHNIQUES/TIPS, PLEASE SHARE THEM AS A COMMENT.
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Extra Special Wood Carvings
Christmas is about here. Those of us who like to carve Santa's are about done for this year. We've spent the year carving Santa's to be gifts for friends and others; or maybe for sale. Our carved Santa's might be PINS, ORNAMENTS, or SHELF SITTERS. It's nearly time to start carving for Christmas 2017.
Here's something to think about.
Not all of our carved pieces are of the same quality. Some are truly surprisingly special (in a good sense). Most are probably just OK. And, well, others nay be less than just OK.
We try to carve all our pieces so that they turn out to be exceptional. I don't know what happens, but some times all the stars must be in alignment, our B/P and sugar is well in the good range, the coffee is good, we don't hurt and ache. The result can be an exceptionally nice piece.
Take these exceptional pieces and keep them separate from the others. These become the higher priced pieces if you sell, or special gifts for special people.
Here's my place for the better done Santa's, to save.....A canister found in a flea market for 20 cents.
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Here's something to think about.
Not all of our carved pieces are of the same quality. Some are truly surprisingly special (in a good sense). Most are probably just OK. And, well, others nay be less than just OK.
We try to carve all our pieces so that they turn out to be exceptional. I don't know what happens, but some times all the stars must be in alignment, our B/P and sugar is well in the good range, the coffee is good, we don't hurt and ache. The result can be an exceptionally nice piece.
Take these exceptional pieces and keep them separate from the others. These become the higher priced pieces if you sell, or special gifts for special people.
Here's my place for the better done Santa's, to save.....A canister found in a flea market for 20 cents.
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